By Pamela Vanessa Meixueiro Aguilar
What makes most innovative products attractive to the public is their long shelf life and usability. For this reason, by 1950, “forever chemicals” were already on the market. They provide high stability and resistance to decomposition, ideal for extended product life. However, their health and environmental impact are becoming more concerning every day.
What are “Forever Chemicals”?
Forever chemicals are technically known as Perfluoroalkyl and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), synthetic chemicals used in industrial processes for a variety of applications. They have extraordinary characteristics, such as being water-, grease-, and stain-resistant. Therefore, they are implemented in textiles, food packaging, firefighting foam, and even aerospace applications.
By the 1930s, the first PFAS, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), had been discovered. In the 1950s, the manufacturing of these chemicals began, leading to their widespread use across industries. However, by the 1970s, health concerns started to emerge, and in the early 2000s, their negative environmental impact had been reported. Since then, the reduction of their use, along with the incorporation of safer alternatives, has been increasingly encouraged.
Over 12,000 chemicals from the PFAS family are estimated to exist worldwide. Of these, 4,700 have been registered, and 257 are commercially relevant. Only a small number of these substances have been studied toxicologically, although the list is rapidly growing and already surpasses 60. Beyond direct health concerns, these chemicals are released during every stage of their life cycle and persist in the environment, amplifying their risk. PFAS can remain in water, soil, and air, elements people interact with daily, making exposure difficult to avoid and extending their potential impact over time.
PFAS-Treated Clothes Concerns
Approximately 50% of the total use of PFAS is directly related to the textile industry. In fashion, they are responsible for making long-lasting, waterproof, and grease-resistant garments, mostly for outdoor use. As stated before, PFAS are released into the air and waterways from manufacturing processes to everyday consumer use.
Conventional wastewater plants don’t necessarily have the technology to filter or decompose these “forever chemicals,” resulting in laundry water discharging into aquatic systems. Additionally, at the end of a garment´s life, if it can’t be recycled or repurposed, it will end up in a landfill, and these substances can migrate with ease into the soil while also persisting through incineration. It’s an ever-ending cycle. These chemicals have also been found in the human body, and research indicates their long-term exposure can negatively affect the immune system, nervous system, disrupt hormone balance, and actively damage vital organs like the kidneys and liver. In response, alternatives like plant-based materials, non-chemicals, and/or short-chain PFAS can provide similar characteristics while being less concerning for public health and bioaccumulation, reducing the industry footprint.
In a study titled “Toxics in Our Clothing Forever Chemicals in Jackets and Clothing from 13 Countries”, jackets and garments mostly targeted for children were tested for PFAS. Out of the 72 samples tested, 46 (63.8%) contained “forever chemicals”. PFOA and PFDA, chemicals that are part of the PFAS family and known for being highly toxic, were found in 17 samples. Lastly, only 21 pieces were found to be completely free from these compounds, highlighting brands like North Face and Black Diamond, which advocate for PFAS-free products.
Transitioning Away From “Forever Chemicals”
PFAS are not necessary for garment manufacturing, and more alternatives must be implemented to reduce the environmental footprint and health problems. One of the reasons alternatives aren’t looked down upon is the higher cost in scalability; however, it might be the only action that can definitely transform the industry, other than regulating measures towards a non-chemical fashion future. Plant-based coatings, naturally hydrophobic materials, and engineered materials like Tencel™ Lyocell are great substitutes for acquiring strong product performance and lowering the environmental impact.
The reliance on PFAS in fashion reflects the existing tension between providing the market with a responsible product and functionality. While chemicals continue to offer durability, they are costing much more to the environment and human health. PFAS-free brands are already launching clothing pieces that excel in performance. Transitioning away from “forever chemicals” is not simply an innovation challenge; it is a necessary shift toward accountability and sustainability.
Sources & Data
All environmental data are linked directly to their original reports within the article.